The Deuce

Set in 1970s New York City, HBO’s The Deuce “reveal[s] the indignities and paradoxes of power dynamics in the sex industry” (Vanity Fair, 2018). For the first and second seasons, I worked on costume designer Anna Terrazas’ team as the assistant costume designer in charge of custom builds, rentals and shopping. Season 1 took place from 1971-1972, followed by season 2 which occurred during 1977-1978; as such, I had to be well-versed in the entire decade in order to differentiate between an early 70s versus a late 70s garment or accessory. Our research included an array of real-life photographic sources, which allowed us to make informed design choices to accurately portray each character and help dispel stereotypes of sex workers. By the end of both seasons, I had sourced thousands of articles of vintage clothing, accessories, fabrics and notions for both principals and background.

Season 1, 1971-1972

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Season 2, 1977-1978

Behind-the-Scenes Process Photos

Bianca Jagger suit, inspiration for "Candy" S2 (see next photo)

Suit our shop built for "Candy" based on period research; materials sourced by me

Research for pimps, S1

Research for "CC" S1

Look we created for "CC" S1 based on the previously shown research

Research for "Al Polite"

Suits I acquired for "Al Polite" based on research image

"Al Polite" fitting

Strolling down 42nd St., S1 Research

Our interpretation of the previous research photo, "Larry Brown" and "CC" looks from S1

Research for "Larry Brown" car scene, S1

Resulting costume based on research

Research for the French Parlor, S2

Resulting looks for French Parlor girls, with pieces I sourced

Research for porn sets and crew, S2

One of the resulting on-set scenes in S2

More behind-the-scenes camera crew research

Resulting scene from S2 based on research

Research inspiration for "Candy" S2 opening sequence jumpsuit, fabric sourced by me

Jumpsuit realized, opening scene S2

Color palette for "366" disco club, S2

Scene of the "366," S2

Research for "366" disco club, S2

Another scene from "366"

Selected shopping

Jacket I sourced for "Abby," S1

"Abby" wearing said jacket

Research for "Candy" dress build, S1

Still of "Candy" wearing dress we built based on research, fabrics sourced by me

"Lori" Little Red Riding Hood research inspiration photo, S2

Fabric sourcing for "Lori" Little Red Riding Hood lace catsuit, S2

"Lori" wearing lace jumpsuit, fabric sourced by me

"Lori" Little Red shoes I sourced

"Thunder Thighs" faux fur jacket, S1

We needed to make mults of this jacket, so I was tasked with sourcing a faux fur as close to the original vintage fabric as possible

Fabric sourcing for "Thunder" jacket mults

Still from S1 of "Thunder" wearing said jacket

Sourcing cowhide for "Larry Brown" trench, S1

Cowhide trench we build for "Larry Brown," worn in S1 + S2

Full length view of the trench

In S1, "Candy" goes to visit her brother "Patrick" at a psychiatric hospital. We sourced inspiration from the 70s film, "One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest."

Resulting scene and costumes based on research

Sourcing uniforms for "Stuckey's" restaurant, S1

Uniforms on screen

Sourcing uniforms for "Stuckey's," S1

"Bernice" in the "Stuckey's" uniform and "Darlene" in S1

Racks and racks of shopping from S1 + S2

Shopping Notes

My haul and I from a vintage shopping trip in Baltimore for S2 stock

Watch the Trailer

The Deuce is available for streaming on HBO. Starring Maggie Gyllenhaal, James Franco, Lawrence Gilliard, Jr., and more. Produced by David Simon, Nina Noble, George Pelecanos and others. See full Cast + Crew here.